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It's alive onThursday 12 Feb 09!
I fired it up for the first time!
Both very exciting and worrying at the same time as the motor
has been sitting around for 6 years here and a couple of years
at the guy's place I bought it off - and then it was on the road
fronm 1990 - 19 yrs old! No rattles, and even idled first time!
Blew me away that I had wired it correctly! |
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This is a lovely 1UZ Turbo on youtube - check
how hot they get under load and boost!
(The pic will take you directly to the video on youtube)
(Nov 2008) |
| Still trying to sort out the speedo - currently using
a VT Speedo (on the right) but I would like to fit the Crown Digital
Speedo (on left) if I can ever get it's wiring worked out! If you
have this wiring diagram - please email me! |
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Pulling dents you can't get to? You can beg/buy/borrow an easybeat
or tack weld some washers on and pull them out with a $10 slide
hammer.
Having trouble getting nuts and bolts done up in deep spots?
Grab a strong magnet and magnetise the tip of the socket first
by stroking it in one direction. I use a rare ceramic earth magnet
- found in a science shop or those big old fullsize hard drives
(the 3" high ones). |
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Turbo lines - if you fit an aftermarket turbo, you can modify
the water lines quite easily as I have done here, they are usually
brazed together and the fittings are steel. Same for banjo fuel
lines!
Part of my wiring mess I have to sort out! |
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| More shots of the wiring I'm sorting out - joining a VR commodore,
a Painless Wiring Harness and 1uz Crown harness and deleting excess
wires. |
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(Dec 2008) |
Decided to fit a fuel tank in an effort to get it on the road
quicker. Getting one that fits was tricky, nearly made one from
scratch - bought this Datsun 180b tank which fits in the fake
drop tank perfectly. Just have to buld an external surge tank
to stop fuel startvation.
Dual batteries in the drivers side guard (small 220 cca sealed
ones that mount under the dash in an MX5) - these should really
be in the passengers side for better weight distribution, however
that side is all setup for the 'jerry can' fueltank when I go
LPG injection later on. |
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Start of the surge tank - my first go at aluminium TIG welding
- easier than I thought - once I learnt that everything must be
sooooooo clean! I now keep seperate gloves for aluminium and don't
touch the filler wire as it contaminates the weld. This shows
up as black slag/impurities that float on the weld - they melt
at twice the aluminium's melting point so cause many problems!
The only way to fix it is to get rid of the impurities - I sand
them off or drill them out!
Surge tank in situ, low pressure and Bosch 044 600hp pump. |
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| Building the dump pipes - using 2.5in mandrel bent steel, I seperated
the gas from the wastegate a bit to reduce turbulance, not as good
as a seperate pipe that joins back in but I ran out of room! Love
to vent them to the atmosphere as I've been for a run in one 1UZ
TT ruuning around with the wastegates vented to the atmosphere -
awesome sound (not leagl though!) |
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| The finished pipe. |
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If you want to make your own mandrel exhaust system by yourself
like I did, make up a clamp like this to help line your pipes
up - much easier than holding them lined up with two hands and
looking for a third to mark with a texta! If you look closely
you can see that the clamps pushes open as well as pull's shut
- made from an old piece of the same exhaust.
The other shot shows clearance at the front of the motor. |
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Fake drop tank - I just realised that NSW has a rule that says
the drop tank can't project beyond a line drawn between the bottom
of the tyre and the rear most part of the car - I had to trim
and reweld this to fix it!
The righthand shot is the aftershot! |
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| Shots inside the Toyota TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) in case
you wondered what they looked like inside. Found out after I'd cut
it open that they are worth $120 - lucky I have a spare! |
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(Jan 09) |
| My pipes will run through the inner gaurds, however, to keep rego
happy you need to reinforce them with some 3 - 4 mm rod. Made a
template from paper and hand bent the wire. |
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| Finished holes before cleanup. |
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| Repairing rust in the guard - I could have bought a rust repair
section for $45 but thought I'd have a go at making the piece first
- if it didn't work out I could always get one then. |
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Trimmed and shaped to fit.
Welded in. |
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| It worked - nearly done! |
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| The final result - looks orange with flash or in the late afternoon
- it's the current Holden Red Hot / Sting (been around since Vt's)
with an extra 1/3 red tinter to brighten it up! |
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Turbo restrictors, you need these with roller bearing turbos
on 1UZ v8's - they put out 100psi and you'll blow the turbo seals
and leave smoke everywhere if you don't use them! You can see
the size of them compared to the electrical connector.
Dump pipes and cats in place. |
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(Feb 09) |
You can see the oilfilter just fits - I think this is a cruiser
one (standard one is remote mount). I trimmed the rail a bit and
it fits with a Ryco filter Z418).
Exhausts to back, oxygen sensors, 500mm from turbos as recommended,
will be interesting to see if they run too cold. I may have to
move them closer and they're only $90 to replace if they cook
- more important to have them respond quickly. |
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Tailshaft Loop -necessary for any sort of drags and safety
- if the front uni breaks or the tailshaft pulls out because the
diff moves too muc - instant chance of the car flipping over the
front wheels - I've seen the result of it!
I cut some 6m thick 5" (125 mm) pipe off, sliced it in half,
added 90 mm to the centre and presto, a tailshaft loop. Pipe offcuts
are pretty handy to have lying around, I have a couple of different
sizes around to use for bending sheet etc - and making a tailshaft
loop! Brackets on the side mount it into the tunnel with plate
on the top. |
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Located in place - block of wood on the trolley jack so I can
drill the holes by myself ( and have it fit snugly)!
Also used this to keep the handbrake away from the tail shaft
- fixed two problems at once. You can see my VN commondore hand
brake mounted here. |
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| More shots looking forward. |
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| Second half of the day was spent making brackets to mount the
transmission cooler. I don't want to mount it in front of the radiator
and risk adding to possible overheating woes. It's up high so the
risk of damage is low, short run to the tranny and I'll louver a
plate and mount it on it to direct some air up through it or /and
chuck a little thermo fan on it. |
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Fuel lines - 10mm (8mm id) aluminium bundy tube from Bunnungs
($11 for 3m). I bought two lengths as I needed about 5m. At least
I should have good fuel flow - going from the standard 8mm to
10mm gives 75% more flow.
The stainless hoses on the right came with the cooler, as I don't
trust them I just cut the ends off to use the right angles for
my transmission lines. |
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| Shots of the car to date (Feb 15 09) - doesn't look much - however
I have painted all the loose panels - hope to start painting the
body soon! |
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| In paint - current Holden Red Hot / Sting (been around since Vt's)
with an extra 1/3 red tinter to brighten it up! |
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| Crown sump - the original - also known as a mid mount sump, you
can get front and rear ones from soarers etc - see below. |
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1UZ Sump variations - For those of you that don't know Toyota
1UZ's have three sump positions
Front sump - LS400 or Celsior - lefthand side
Mid sump - Crown - In the middle photo
Rearward sump - SC400 , soarer sump not completely at the rear
- right hand photo
There is not a lot of difference between the mid and rear - only
about 25mm between the bowls. (info from Letreme.com) |
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