Intercooler pipes made in 2" exhaust pipe with mandrel bends for a nice flow around tight corners - shop around - they vary from $15 to $25. You can also get a nice tight 200mm donut that you can cut up for nice tight 180's etc. (Found them online below)

You can buy these on line from Dumper King - and the postage is reasonable! $25 for 12 mandrel bends (180 degree 2" mandrel pictured $25 in aluminium or $15 in steel)

http://www.dkne.com.au/

UPDATE

Check the two shots above and to the right as the top one shows what it looked like before I re-did the intake pipes in the lower shot with the old blue guard in place. I thought the passenger side looked crap as they weren't symmetrical and didn't give good radiator clearance for my custom radiator so I redid them.

Looks much nicer now.

Wiring

What a mess - started roughing out the wiring as I wanted to use the Crown electric steering column as it has all the switches and electric tilt and extension. Had to join:

• Toyota column wiring
• Painless Fuse box and wiring
• VR Commodore rear wiring and dash
• Electric windows and door locks

I wanted the rear indicators to come on when I select reverse as I did in my FJ, so I put 2 x 3 amp diodes in each side so the indicators are still separated for normal use and the front indicators don't come on in reverse.

Visited Enzed to have some high pressure lines made up for the Turbo oil feed.

The 1UZ runs 100psi oil pressure so the lines had to be good, the last thing you want is to dump all your engine oil - good chance of a fire or engine seize! They were pretty knowledgeable and supplied some restrictors (about 0.5mm hole) to reduce the oil flow to the roller bearing turbo's - without them you'll blow the seals after leaving big smoke trails!

The lines cost me $220 which I thought was pretty good value. Have a good think about how you design the lines as the fittings vary from $15 for straight fittings to $40 if you need right angle fittings. The hose costs about $20/m and is put together with teflon fittings so you can pull it apart and cut it to shorten it or purchase longer hose. There are tricks to cutting it without fraying - wrap tape around before cutting.

Turbo Oil Drain line - the turbo's turn the oil to a brown froth and as you can imagine, this does not flow well. To get this back to the sump, you need big, clear open lines, I used 19mm (3/4 in) fittings and silver brazed a 'T' into the front of the sump so that the froth flowed into the mesh and away from the crank (yes the one in the pic is only 1/2", I'm changing it for 3/4".

This was at the recommendation of the Lextreme website and other experienced turbo people.

I used copper pipe and strengthened this with a support as the copper can get brittle and crack if not supported. I'll replace it with steel if there are problems later. All connected with 19mm pressure hose that can handle heat and oil.

Each turbo is fed by an external pod filter that gets lots of cold air - no way was I going to chuck them under the bonnet and suck hot air like a lot of lazy builders. No point sucking hot engine air if you can start with colder air as it will cost you a lot of horsepower!

I'll build a removable shield around them to stop water and dirt splashing on them from the wheels.

Front brakes - VT commodore DBA fluted and drilled

New Twin spot calipers - Ford BA (PBR K247133C 1) - bought as new for $200 for the pair - at the Ford Wreckers - removed from falcons at the dealer when the brakes were upgraded to four spots before delivery.

Bracket - 8 mm high tensile steel - by Ed.

Booster - I used a late model Gemini front wheel drive booster - these are great as they are small and can be opened up. Shot on the left is a VN one I chopped up to see what was inside.

I using two bits of pipe with holes and twisted the Gemini one open. I then changed the bolts and bolt location by 5 mm to fit a 1" Commodore Master cylinder. I threaded the bolts, loctited them with a loctite glue and siliconed them at the back as well to stop leaks. After removing the vacuum breather, I replaced it with a one way valve (from the VN) so the turbo's don't get rid of my vacuum.

You can see the booster fitted here.

I modified the hinges so that the new master cylinder / booster fitted.

You can see the wood I used to line up the bonnet while working out the hinge change (I used a passenger side hinge to move the spring away, modifying the spring mounts and the top plate. Hopefully when it's all painted, most people won't even notice it.

More shots of the hinges and the new booster.

I realised after I'd finished and thrown out the original bracket that I could have refitted it.

I'll have to chase one later.

Shot of the intercooler pipes.

Started modifying the second throttle body to pull in the opposite way so that two throttle cables can be pulled from one accelerator pedal. I'll make a bracket that attaches roughly where it is now. But down the track I'll build a linkage so I only have one cable.

Another shot of the intercooler tubing. I've leaned it forward to get extra airflow into the radiator.

Dirty threads in an old car?

Run a tap through with a battery drill and and a little grease, use the torque setting to protect the tap and thread - bl**dy quick!